Sunday, January 30, 2011

Bits and bites from Costa Rica

To sum up our 19 day experience travelling, eating, sleeping and speaking through Costa Rica would of course be worth mentioning the wonderful people we encountered along the way. The Ticos have been amazingly friendly and hospitable despite their country being swallowed up by tourists this last decade in search of eco adventure + a more affordable way of travel. Apparently though, from what we have seen first hand with the empty hotels and quiet restaurants at peak dinner time, it seems that tourists are landing elsewhere for their fix of cheap eats and surfing, sun + sand. Business owners and service staff have been honest in mentioning that times have been a little tougher the last couple of seasons. We suspect this is for a couple of reasons: the US economy combined with the fact that Costa Rica was expensive!!! At least, we thought so. One cost which remained totally inconsistent and proved to be the difference in our budget was accomodation. Of course being rookies initially, we were such easy targets to be taken advantage of. Or simply the time of day/season could make the difference of $20-$40 for the same room!
Although we could be searching a little harder for dorm style rooms and taking the risk of sleeping with other backpackers for a mere average of $10/night, the thought of sharing a communal bathroom or being stuck next to a major snorer just don't seem appealing enough at this point. So we look for a private room with preferably our own bathroom and use of a kitchen. Extra super bonus is a decent mattress + pillow AND use of our own kitchen!
Nonetheless our great memories and wonderful time spent in the country just meant that we might have to tweak our budget a bit as we moved on to cheaper countries such as Nicaragua and Honduras.
My grasp of the Spanish language is improving. I am definately glad that I had invested in some private tutoring beforehand though, since more often than not we were needing to communicate some essentials especially in the smaller towns. Verbs like Tener, Poder, Quiero and Hacer were definately lifesavers and then of course the usual: Donde, Cuanto, Como se Dice, Buenos (they only say the buenos part of buenos dias) Gracias, Mucho Gusto, Cervesa and the inevitable Bano!!! Stringing the sentences together becomes interesting as my Portuguese and French start to get in on the mix, but it seems to do the trick as the similarities prove enough. Danny is doing super awesome with his sign-language techniques, LOL. Although we joke that I would have to be the translator for the duration of the trip, he really is understanding more and I do believe by the end of it all he will be able to say 'nosotros' without help:-)
So far there has not been much culture shock, mostly just adjusting to the Costa Rican way of life: buses that don't run on time, a bit of a language barrier and of course, food! As part of my regular eating schedule, I like to balance my carbs and types of carb vs. proteins and healthy fats using proper timing intervals between meals all the while paying attention to my fibre intake so that my absorption of vitamins and minerals are optimal so that in turn, digestion is smooth and elimination is clockwork. WELL, none of that is possible here!!! HA!!
A staple here possible with EVERY meal is rice + beans (gallo pinto) and plantain done any way possible but preferably fried of course. Fruit is plentiful which has been my saviour but veggies, especially the green leafy ones that typically comfort and accompany me in my tupperware back home, are hard to find here!! However, we are just embracing the white rice and almost everything else being made with corn and the textures and taste have been wonderful whether it is meat on a stick with a side something fried off the side of the road or dining in a restaurant to get comida tipico. The chicken actually tastes like chicken and the eggs are so fresh that they sell them anywhere and everywhere and at room temperature!
Monday Tim comes back from Monteverde and Tues we are off to NIcaragua. We already know it is going to be a long day of travel but definately was not expecting what was going to be the adventure ahead....

Friday, January 28, 2011

Zip Lining

The adventure continues, Sunday morning we are booked to go zip-lining which is something that neither of us have ever tried. We were being picked up at 10:30 am and taken to the site where 4 guides were waiting to take us through 12 different lines of difficulty, height and speed!! What a rush!!! There is not much to it except just let yourself go and trust your harness....we had quite a few yelps out loud and were feeling quite giddy by the end of the morning, one more box checked off the list:-)

Sunday, January 23, 2011

Fabulous at 50!!

Yesterday was a very special day. Danny's 50th birthday!!! WOW!!! This man continues to inspire me every day with his outlook on life, his pure energy and his ability to love so strong. He is actually an inspiration to most people that meet him and I am so blessed that we get to spend this time together.
Tim had left in the morning to check out Monteverde, the biggest Cloud Forest in Costa Rica. Danny and I were scheduled to spend the day at the Baldi Hot Springs which is a huge resort/hotel in La Fortuna where the background is the impressive Arenal Volcano. The itinery: countless waterfalls, hot and cold spring water baths, a sauna, waterslides, jacuzzi and 3 swim-up bars all with buffet lunch included bewteen 12 - 2. Not only did we spend the day but we stayed part of the night!! He was having a blast and we truly just let ourselves relax into the sights and sounds. By the time we finished dinner in town, we both agreed more relaxation was in order.....to bed we go after a full day of absolutely nothing and everything at the same time, if that's possible....a successful day at the spa and one very satisfied birthday boy:-)

Cousin Tim

Really not much to do in Liberia. Couple of musuems but we are looking for our fill of History once we hit Nicaragua and Guatemala. To the beach we go for Monday!!! Playa Hermosa is about 1 hr bus ride away, and the perfect time filler as I await my cousin's arrival tonight.
Tim and I grew up extremely close right from birth. We lived mere blocks away from eachother throughout childhood and were inseperable on weekends and every summer vacation. Until this day we remain good friends and I am very excited for a piece of home coming our way. An added bonus is that he is bringing my netbook from home which I didn't see much use for initially but regreted not bringing it on this 2 month excursion almost immediately.
The 3 of us set out the next day with our shuttle for Rincon de la Vieja, about 1 hr away. The land at this National Park is actually alive and breathing: the volcano last erupted in 1991, and rivers of lava still broil beneath the thin epidermis of ground ( I took this from our guide book, thanks again Gillian + Ross). An absolutely amazing hike and definately the most intense physical exercise Danny and I have done to this point. My favourite was the mud pots, totally mesmorizing to watch the action of mud bubbling which created a sound I will never forget!!!

The rest of the week just flies by as we pack in our schedule with road trips, more hiking, waterfalls, hot springs, a massage, a full moon, and making falafel for dinner from scratch!! Of course, Danny knows Tim from back home and it is extra special that I get to spend this time with 2 guys that I love and appreciate so much PLUS they get along so famously that a couple of times I felt I should leave them alone for some guy time. Fine by me as I am pretty comfortable with my own thoughts and time for meditation:-)

Church, street meat and BULLS!

Sunday mornings mean one thing in Central America: CHURCH! It seems so far in our travels, no matter how small the village or how desolete the town there is always one consistent and definate staple: the existence and possibilty for religion with prayer in a communal surrounding for the purpose of fellowship and worship in a CHURCH!
What this means to tourists like us is only one thing: nothing open and nothing for sale = no morning coffee!!! Albeit, the tradition and dedication is still very much appreciated.
Now that we feel like professional local bus travellers, riding back to Santa Cruz is actually pleasant as we anticipate what awaits us at this festival. All we know is that Liberia is totally deserted and can't help but wonder if every Tico, Chico and his cousins are in attendance....YUP, pretty much!!! The place is jammed with people everywhere and there is an air of total and complete celebration. There is only one thing on these people's minds on this glorious Sunday afternoon: PARTY. We have arrived.
We walk the strip and it doesn't take us long to figure out that we are the only tourists from outside of the country as far as we can tell. This is exactly what we are looking for on this trip: to be immersed in the culture with language, food, people and festivities.
The Bull Riding Championships start at 2. Plenty of time for us grab some street meat and purchase our tickets. The show is entertaining to say the least. The highlight for me was when the overhead main speaker caught fire and all I could imagine was that the entire stadium we were sitting in, including our seats was made of wood.
Taunting and teasing an innocent Bull in an enclosed circle is not my first idea of a game fairly played. It was however very interesting to witness how tradition sticks whether it makes sense or not. Then again, people may say the same thing about boxing:-)

Friday, January 21, 2011

Steelers, Beer and the Terrible Towel

The Steelers are playing Saturday evening so for Danny this means: t.v. and beer!!! I am happy to wander around our new city on the hunt for beer while he settles in front of the tube with terrible towel in hand. (see picture)
There are at best about 5 choices of beer here in Costa Rica, and if we are lucky, we can score a Heinekin in a bottle, happy days!!! But usually and especially in the Super Mercado, we have the choice of Imperial or Pilsen in the can.....not much variety as they are both watery and flat tasting, a far cry from the wonderful hops we have back home. These suds do the trick however, considering at this point we are typically enjoying a beer or two after a long hot day of travelling, hiking or exploring.
The coffee however well makes up for what they lack in tasty beer, when we can get it!!! Seems like when we have early morning excursions and definately on Sundays, there is no easy way of just walking into a cafe and getting one to go on the fly.....it's usually a bit of a process, BUT well worth the work:-)
The Steelers win which means another game the following Sunday which means hunting for a sports bar wherever we are at that point. This reminds me of this past summer when we were on a road trip from Montreal to Boston while the World Cup was on: part of our adventure was finding the most happening and festive place to watch the match where the biggest fans were.....more of a tough task finding American football fans in Costa Rica however, LOL!
It turns out that the festival we came across along our bus travel was actually the National Bull Riding Championships that was coming to a close the next day, Sunday!!! Sounds like a plan:-)

Thursday, January 20, 2011

hope for Liberia

Making our way back to the main bus terminal, we can only hope to catch a bus straight to Liberia since we hadn't really planned or researched the departure times. We get there to find out that the bus which leaves for Liberia (a good sign) leaves from another terminal on the other side of town (bad news). First piority: FOOOOOOOOD!!!! Danny scoped out where the locals were eating and what they were eating, done deal.....5 min later we are chowing down probably one of the best soups of my life!!! A hunk of meat on a bone mixed in with a wonderful broth and full of plenty of carbs in the form of dumplings, plantain, potato and all with a side of corn tortilla and rice!!! This was necessary for the 3 hour bus ride ahead.
Part of what takes so long on most local bus rides besides the horrendous roads is that they stop very often. One particular stop peaked our interest however, in the town of Santa Cruz. At this point it is about 2 in the afternoon and there is a full blown festival in at it's peak right before our eyes!!! Mental note, come back tomorrow and check this out!!!
Once in Liberia (we both got a seat on the bus, yay), it was back to the grind to find home for the night. Not much luck here either!!! Plenty of availablity but really lacking in the cleanliness and comfort department. Now, we are willing to 'rough' it a bit but when you are paying the prices they are asking, we could only hope for certain ammenities, like AC and space between the bed and the wall, maybe??? We finally settle on Casa Vieja, close to the Central Park and equipped with a kitchen which we like. Private room with an extra bed for Tim when he arrives although it's very tight.....this is our settlement for the next 4 nights....

bad road conditions makes Toronto traffic appear a breeze!

We are now mobile with a silver diahatsu (I'm thinking Japanese) ready to take on the rough roads ahead, not highly reccomended by the locals, but we are eager to start on our next adventure to Samara. What adds to the excitement of this next endeavor for us is that Danny and I have a pretty good track record of getting lost on road trips regardless of maps, good directions and/or a GPS. Apparently we are meant to just stop in every town and 'ask', considering that there are no street signs, foreign concept to the Costa Ricans we are learning. Alas, 5 hours later we covered the necessary 100kms which is reasonable time considering the bumps, curves and swerves all along the way. Not so bad considering we had the opportunity to catch the stunning sunset over the Pacific at Carrillo beach, just before rolling into Samara for check-in and dinner at our newest habitacion for the evening.

The beach is pretty good but we've seen better along the way and are becoming surf and sun snobs suddenly! There is a really good feel in this town however....kinda like a rasta-carribean flair with a mix of rich American investors slowly contributing with condos, lofts and houses on the outskirts. I find our first gym and am so super excited to test out the equipment and get a pump at the same time! The weights are housed in a very cute and compact but comfortable studio and my favourite is the hanging heavy bag on an outside court. Our host speaks decent English (the development on my Spanish is a whole other post)so I am able to ask questions and get a vibe for the industry here. It turns out, they have no boxing in the town and even more amazing to me is there is no protein powder or shakes for sale at their otherwise very well equipped pro shop!!! Apparently, people here don't care for it; they drink post workout milkshakes and fruit smoothies.

After 3 nights, 2 hostels and 2 too many pizzas later we decide to move on to Nicoya which would require our first local bus trip!! So on a bright sunny Saturday morning after a late Reggae beach party Friday night, we are geared up and waiting for our scheduled bus at 8:30am which is obviously late as 9 am rolls around. We luck out when a taxi pulls up with 2 extra seats and going our way!!! He charges us the same fare as what the bus would be for the 1 hour ride and without hesitation we hop into the back!!!

The plan is to overnight in Nicoya without a reservation. There are a couple of suggestions listed in our travel guide book which we figure are gold and we are good to go. Well, when we get dropped off by the taxi and trek around town, once again needing to find our bearings, we finally make it on an empty stomach and through the sweltering heat to our destination Hotel Jenny....should have been called 'Stinky Jennys'!!!.....WOW, and they wanted us to pay to stay there??? 2 hours and 3 more places later, we decide to move on out of Nicoya and hope for better luck in Liberia:-)

Monday, January 17, 2011

the meaning of time something different here

seems like time is suddenly going fast considering we have been travelling already almost 2 weeks!!! So back to Santa Teresa...we had planned to stay just one night since when we arrived we realized how crazy dusty it was.....like unbelievably dusty to the point where we bought ourselves a bandana to breath through....however, the major selling feature was the pristine beach which was hard to leave. That and we scored a really sweet loft apartment just across from the beach with a deck and full equipped kitchen. So we stayed 3 more nights. It is not cheap to eat out in these parts so we are trying to cook for ourselves as much as possible. 2 super great things about travelling with Danny, just for a start, is 1- he loves to cook and is really good at it and 2- he eats healthy!!!!

On our last day there we rented an ATV which was a blast...the roads were brutally bumpy which was part of the fun, that and the unknown of what awaited us every turn or hill we came across.....only once did I fear for our lives when we hit what could be comparable to hitting black ice at home where there is no control of the steering....alas, Danny pulled through as I hung on tight...we even had enough confidence to rent a car the next day to take us to Samara... We had heard so much about this beach town so there was only one way to find out, plus, it happened to be on our way back up as we are intending to be in Liberia for the 17th when my cousin Tim arrives. Plan is set, car is rented, off we go on another bumpy adventure, no hostel booked for the night and directions were 'just ask along the way, on the way'.....ok....here we go....hasta luego for now!!!!

Saturday, January 15, 2011

we are here and gone and there and gone again!!

So, we arrived in Costa Rica safely and the long day of travel with the layover did not discourage us one bit! Up to this point after 10 sleeps in Central America, we have officially visited or passed through countless cities, towns and villages by using different modes of transportation and in total have slept in 7 different hostels!!! It is taking a bit of trial and error in finding our groove with what comfort means to us but trying not to pay the price so to speak....we have had a few expensive lessons but were able to shrug it off easily especially considering the weather has been so amazing.

We managed to skip the major city of San Jose all-together, which was intentional and were quite happy to spend our first three nights in a city closer to the airport called Alejuela....from there we had our own guide Alfonso, who also picked us up from the airport, take us on a day tour of Paos Volcano which also included a visit to a coffee plantation and a traditional meal off the side of the moiuntain consisting of chicken, beans and rice with plantain and corn tortillas!!! YUMMY!!!

For those of you who don't know, we have what is very close to absolutely NO plan for the whole 2 months we are visiting Central America...we decided this was part of the adventure AND learning about eachothers capacity for patience along the way...so far, a few minor blips, but really, we are so focused on just enjoying ourselves and eachother and this time to explore, that it'll be hard for anything to get in the way of our good intentions.

From Alejuela, we decided to go south as we needed to seriously work on our tans! If we were going to try to blend in with the Ticos at all, we needed some work...so we set out for SurfTown in the beautiful Nicoya Peninsula. Bus-boat-bus and 5 + a bit hours later, there we were in Santa Teresa, ready to take on the beach and the sun and maybe some waves....

Hasta Luego for now...continue the updates when a fellow hosteler is not breathing down my neck waiting to use the computer!!!

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

we are off!!!

So after much planning and alot of excitement, we are off to what is the unknown that awaits us in Central America!! The flight tomorrow will be a long one with a four hour layover in New York but we are up for the challenge...geared up with our music and kobo readers, we are sure to be kept entertained until our arrival at San Jose airport in Costa Rica. We have our first 3 nights booked in the town of Alejuela and are being picked up by our 'host' Alfonso who is said to be the 'go-to' dude of the area.

As far as our backpacks go, it seems that we both have just enough room for any last minute add-ons...clothes are rolled tightly and toiletries kept to a minimum;-)

So my phone is officially off and I anticipate some major BBM withdrawl, not sure how long that will last though...should be interesting...

I can't wait for morning coffee and the adventure that lies ahead...until next post, hasta luego!!!